Tales from my Bangor Home #1

After the various challenges of the pandemic, completion on the Bangor holiday home coming just in time for Christmas 2021 was very welcome indeed! Whilst I live in England now, my connection to my Northern Irish roots feels very strong (and in particular Bangor having lived here 38 years ago). Being back in Ballyholme, I found myself regularly passing the house, and flat which belonged to my Grandparents …. and I am sure the swings on The Green were there back in the day, when they were a regular play spot for my cousin and I.

Early evening stroll by Ballyholme Bay

The festive lights added a certain sparkle to the town during my 1^st visit as home owner, and it was great to explore alongside the festivities. I hope that friends and family will be able to use the apartment over the years to come, so this is the first in a series of blogs which I hope will provide them with some useful links and a wee holiday hint or two, as I rediscover my childhood home and the surrounding area!

1.     Check the tide times!

Before an early morning walk or run along the esplanade onto the coastal path, its worth checking the tide times here - especially to complete the 5km loop without soggy feet! Whilst that sounds obvious for the locals, not the first thing us city folk think of! With a view from the apartment of Ballyholme Bay I also had a new-found interest in marine traffic! Check on the comings and goings here!

2.       There’s no shortage of places to eat out!

It’s important to do the aforementioned morning run to counter the never-ending possibilities for a breakfast out! Even with the closures over the festive period we managed quite a few and I would recommend all of them! The Guillemot near the Harbour, it’s next door neighbour The Salty Dog (also great for an early evening drink), The Starfish Cafe (felt like a not to be missed spot by the locals – and you must try their scones!) and Bowbells in Donaghadee (watch BBC drama Hope Street for some great drone footage of the town). The Olive Tree was a late discovery in our stay, popping in for soup the day I was flying home – I’ll definitely be visiting again. With it being the festive period, we didn’t eat out so much in the evenings, but enjoyed a meal at The Esplanade and there are a few more on the list for next time!

A wee scone at The Starfish Cafe, Cairn Bay Lodge

3     Great views from the Coastal Path

A New Year’s Day walk along the North Down Coastal Path was great for blowing the cobwebs away – we did the stretch from Ballyholme to Groomsport (watch out for those tide times!), but plenty more of the path to explore next time.

North Down Coastal Path (Ballyholme - Groomsport)

4.       It’s worth going a little further afield

Given it was the festive period, we weren’t too far travelled – everything above is possible without a car, except perhaps Donaghadee (I have yet to check out local public transport). A ‘blue sky’ day gave the perfect backdrop for a drive along the shores of Strangford Loch and a visit to Mount Stewart National Trust. 8 miles from Bangor, the town of Holywood is a good spot for a wander and don’t miss popping into the Yard Gallery whilst you are there, with some great prints of Northern Ireland by local artists, amongst other things.

Donaghadee Lighthouse

Mount Stewart, National Trust

5.       The locals are always happy to help 😊

I may be biased, but the Northern Irish are very friendly – and even a walk to the local shop results in a chat. On one of my early morning runs, I somehow ended up finding all about Open Water Swimming! It seems to be very popular and several times I passed a dry robe neatly positioned on the beach – and sure enough not far away someone was braving the water! Any questions during your stay and the locals will be very happy to help and of course there is a wealth of information in the Visitor Information Centre.

Christmas at the Abbey

Nestled in the Worcestershire countryside, with the Malvern Hills in the background is a little gem called Stanbrook Abbey. The Abbey is steeped in history – from 1838 until 2009 it was home to a congregation of Benedictine Nuns until it was sold to a hotelier. The current owners, Handpicked Hotels bought the property in 2018.

Stanbrook Abbey

Christmas 2020 will go down in history as the year Covid-19 impacted plans and celebrations around the world. Having lost my mum suddenly in May, and my brother and family living in Australia, dad and I knew that the festive season was going to feel very different. We decided that a festive break with a hotel group we knew and trusted was just what we needed. Admittedly Covid restrictions nearly got in the way of the plan – but thank goodness the support bubble saved the day! Everyone is talking about feeling safe at the moment – and the hotel team had everything down to a fine art. Greeted at the door by one receptionist, by the time we had walked through to the front desk our paperwork and keys were magically ready for us. With mulled wine and a mince-pie being delivered to the room moments after arrival I knew I was going to feel at home! We certainly didn’t go hungry during our stay – afternoon tea on Christmas Eve was a bit more than a light snack to set us up for the 2 days ahead! 

A light snack!

Every meal we had was lovely, and nothing was too much trouble for the hotel team - who managed well a mix of professional yet informal and friendly. Cold but dry and frosty mornings were perfect for exploring the Abbey Estate and the surrounding lanes – with a firepit being a great backdrop for a Birds of Prey display. 

The Christmas morning firepit

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I loved how the hotel still preserves the history of the Abbey, and that it is respected by the hotel team. Old architecture and the new buildings blend together seamlessly, preserving the integrity of the original build. We learnt more about the nuns from the Abbey Tour – and listening to Carols on Christmas Eve in the Callow Great Hall (formerly the Abbey church) was so memorable (and a return visit when it can be live singing is a must!). 

The Callow Great Hall

Walking through the tranquil lavender garden is a permanent memorial to the nuns that had lived in the Abbey over the years. The remaining nuns now live in a new Stanbrook Abbey in Yorkshire but return annually to visit their original home. I think the hotel basement may have changed a bit since those days ...

The wine cellar in the basement

A quick trip up the 140 tower steps, with great views over the Malvern Hills and the surrounding countryside meant that all Christmas calories were burnt off (who I am kidding?!) before departure. Stanbrook Abbey is definitely on the list of hotels to return to. Mum would have loved it … and in a world beyond Covid, I think it might just be close enough for Sunday lunch or an afternoon tea!

Until the next time ...

The beauty of Northern Ireland

 

As Storm Erin buffeted the coast of Ireland, there was more than a moment of doubting the wisdom of a crossing on the Irish sea! Normally delays on ferries and boats are a cause of frustration – and whilst I wouldn’t want to revisit the 5-hour delay in the middle of the night at Holyhead, the fact that the storm had passed when we eventually set sail was a big relief.

Arriving into Dublin port, there was an added poignancy to this trip – yes it was back to my ‘homeland’, it was one of the few places which could, in August be visited within the Covid restrictions – but most importantly, it was a place so special to mum. Having lost her so suddenly in May, it seemed fitting that dad and I could take the time to retrace steps, and remember.

On landing in the Emerald Isle, the restrictions didn’t allow us to overnight in Dublin – but undeterred we still fitted in breakfast and a long overdue catch up with family. Heading North, the ear retuned to the ‘Norn Iron’ lingo, ready to catch up on the ‘craic’ with friends and family. There was no shortage of fine food – often with amazing views. 

I had forgotten how stunning it was to have the Mountains of Mourne as a backdrop – and I rediscovered scones – Northern Irish style, with a variety of flavours that make English muffins look boring! 

Scones with the Mountains of Mourne as a backdrop

Maybe it’s the strangeness of ‘unprecedented’ times – or memories of mum, but I loved retracing steps …. walking along the seafront in Bangor, inconspicuously (!) peering through the gates at Granny and Grandpa’s old house, seeing how café culture had crept into Ballyholme – and Gin to Donaghadee (a future visit to The Copeland Distillery Donaghadee will have to added to the post Covid list!).

Bangor Harbour

Visits in recent years have tended to be for a long weekend – this time, visiting for a week meant there was time for a trip to the North Coast where the aftermath of Storm Erin had left bright blue skies – making the coast line even more stunning. Our roadtrip took us along the Antrim coast – through Cushendall, Cushendun, Ballycastle – and as far as Portballintrae, Portstewart and Portrush …. the last time I had been in Portrush could have been 35 years ago when it was famous for Barry’s amusements and Morelli’s ice-cream (and a treat when we were growing up)! 

Portballintrae

Staying for two nights in Smugglers Cove we were in a perfect spot to enjoy a meal at the award-winning Bushmills Inn, and the spectacular views overlooking White Park Pay and Portbradden.

White Park Bay and Portbradden

A late afternoon trip to Ballintoy harbour avoided the crowds – having never seen an episode of Game of Thrones, the significance of the filming location was a little lost on me – as were the adults in the car park, donning full GoT outfits!

Ballintoy Harbour - Games of Throne country

This year’s more extended visit to Northern Ireland was well overdue – but I think it will become a regular ‘go home to’ place in the post Covid world 😊.